JAPAN was once regarded as an expensive holiday destination, but with the changing paterns of Japanese tourism it has become affordable for those wishing escaping the South African winter. The key to getting the most Yen for your Rand is to start the journey far away from the bright lights of Tokyo and head for the hills.

Takayama is the perfect introduction to a Japanese adventure and is a two-hour train ride from Nagoya.

The town is a gateway to the Japanese alps, offers charming ryokan guesthouses and has centuries-old shrines.

Quiet and small enough to cover on foot, Takayama is still large enough to cater for tourists.

Scattered around town are Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines dating to the feudal period, each individual in character yet typically Japanese in elegance.

Shinto shrines are easy to find. They have large red torii gates leading the way inside.

As you walk through a torii you enter a place of spiritual purity. Before going in, locals wash their hands and drink from a flowing stream to cleanse the soul.

Buddhist temples are usually the flashy ones, with multi-tiered pagodas and striking, curved roofs.

Even the smallest of temples in Takayama offers visitors a place to rest, see a pond of koi fish and reflect on the beauty of nature. Or at least a carefully manicured expression of nature, confined to the small spaces of a courtyard.

Spending a few days exploring the temples on foot is healthy for you and your budget.

The historic centre of town in the Sanmachi district is another matter. It's likely to drain your wallet on gorgeous souvenirs.

Handcrafted paper, local sake and quirky designs of pottery are some of the treats on the street.

Sanmachi is an enclave of Edo period houses, unchanged for centuries. Dark timber facades and narrow streets are adorned with potted bonsai and ginkgo trees. No vehicles are allowed, only waves of Japanese tourists and the occasional rickshaw.

At either end of the Sanmachi district are traditional Japanese restaurants that specialise in noodles, sashimi or banquet-style dining.

Even the most modest budget is catered for here, and the mid-range option of sitting down to a bowl of handmade soba-noodles with tempura prawns on top costs about R80.

Running through the centre of town is the Miyagawa River, bringing pristine water from the surrounding alps. Visiting those mountains is a R160 bus ride away.

The Shinhotaka Ropeway is the main focus, starting at 1100m and climbing to 2200m. The 15-minute ride costs R120 and the views are stunning. Seasonal colours fill the landscape and snow-capped peaks appear in all directions.

Once you reach the top you can set off to hike farther into the Japan Alps National Park.

Maybe you're better suited to a traditional onsen experience. Back down the hill in the small onsen town of Hirayu you can choose from dozens of places to stay and play.

The onsen experience is intended to be relaxation imbued with flowing water from hot springs.

The average ryokan guesthouse is the equivalent of our B&B, and your board each night includes dinner, breakfast and the use of their onsen.

From R480 a night a couple you can delve into the Japanese way of life.

Ryokan rooms are typically small yet elegant, with futon mattresses rolled out at night. The texture of tatami mats will become pleasantly familiar to your feet.

They also provide traditional yukata robes to relax in comfort after your onsen.

After spending a day roaming the temples and laneways of Takayama, or ascending the alpine peaks at Shinhotaka, a good soak at your ryokan feels more like an indulgence than budget travel.

Ewen Bell travelled as a guest of the Japan National Tourist Organisation.